Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Kyoto

Well, been hanging out here in Kyoto for the last few days. Since Monday in fact... let me tell you about monday.

First, I should probably start with Sunday though... this would be 16th. Left Tim's place fairly early to try and get to the Hombu Dojo and see the class with Doshu. Finally worked out this time, having left a fairly decent amount of time to get there and still get lost, I was actually early. Doshu class was extremely packed and hot as heck (it's been very hot and humid in Tokyo the entire time I've been here--quite horrible indeed). Decent Aikido of course, and the Doshu looked very good, though I don't know about the rest of the people. Pretty much everyone was wearing hakama, and there were only about two or three white belts (out of say fifty or more). Impressive nonetheless. I had to sit seiza in the corner, on the wood floor, and still had dodge some falls.

And then I began to realize how bloody heavy my pack still is. I took out a bunch of stuff before leaving Tim's place, but not nearly enough. I should've taken out the sleeping bag as well, but, alas. In any case, I ended up hanging around Shinjuku some more, trying to figure out a way to get a night bus to Kyoto. Everywhere was closed for Sunday. So, I played with some options, tried the JR bus (which was most expensive at ¥5000), but they were full. The place I wanted I had emailed, but never got through due to Sunday. So, I figured I would show up (which I knew where to) at 22:00 and see if I can manage to sign up at the door--something I don't really recommend. But, after waiting till the last minute, they had a couple cancel or not show up, and eventually I got to get a spot.

And then sleeping on the way to Kyoto. I won't bore you. It was a reasonably uncomfortable bus sleeping experience. The rest stop we went to was pretty cool. All the combini's here in Japan are the most useful places on earth, but this one was bigger and had a decent selection of food and touristy items.

I got to Kyoto before the rain started on the last day of Gion Matsuri, possibly the largest festival in Japan, and at least Kyoto during the year. Not bad on the whole, but you could tell it was a national holiday as there were lots of people coming from everywhere and every direction. I mostly stayed at the Kyoto Station, checked out the information station, had some coffee and beignets at the Cafe du Monde in the station, lamented the fact that I hated how heavy my bag was, managed to get some lunch, and call the Uno House for reservations for staying. Eventually got to the hostel, in the rain. Did I mention the rain. Very heavy rain.

Perfect for a festival.

Dropped off the very heavy bag and went out into the throngs to check out the festival, though mostly just got stuck shopping in the extensive shopping arcade area in the heart of downtown (though fun) to get out of the rain. Eventually decided I should go get to an Onsen and get clean before heading back to the hostel, and got on the bus (going the wrong direction initially), took a few minutes nap, and when I woke up, there were people lined up outside a temple the bus was driving past. So, I got off instead and waited for whatever it was to happen.

Eventually found out (much later) that this was the temple in Gion, where they do the whole Gion festival thing. Eventually the street was closed off and some interesting parading folks came through (photos pending of course). And then the flotillas came by (for lack of a better term). They were large (could fill a 2m cube) gold pagota like objects strapped to logs (about 6m) that herds of men in white garb were carrying. Then, when they got in front of the temple, they would rock the flotilla and cause the bits of metal they had also attached to the ends of the main beams to make a great deal of noise. And lots of chanting and clapping as well. I'll figure out how to post the movie of it eventually.

That took a good hour and a half. Each flotilla had to be paraded in for a bit, and then there was a small mini flotilla/pagota thing as well. Some speaking by, presumably, the head priest or some such. More chanting, noise making, and such--and then the flotillas went their ways down other streets to be paraded elsewhere.

Then I got the bus to the Onsen.

Took a good while to find the onsen. Though the Guide is pretty decent at saying about where things are, the street maps are nearly worthless at being exact enough to actually find some things. But, after asking twice, I finally saw the sign (right in front of me practically) for the onsen. Very nice, mostly sento (bath house), but there was a small area outside with natural rocks (trad. onsen style). Saw a few guys with very extensive tatoo work, which may or may not have been yakuza. I also found the combination of sauna and cold bath quite nice, and made my head trip out a bit as well.

Tried walking home though, which was a bad choice. I saw it on the map just fine, but the walk ended up being like two miles and the rain was pouring again at this time. Finally got to the guest house/hostel and got into some clean dry clothes. Ate some food (noodles again, but with some pre-fried tofu from the market).

At the hostel common room though I met the French guy I had stopped off in Ueno park to share a brief pizza with though, so that was uncanny. Scheduled myself with him and his other french friends for some sightseening the next day.

It was a very busy monday.

And I'll have to write more about Tuesday, Wednesday, and today (Thursday) later. Running out of cafe time. Trying to apply for jobs and getting the picture uploading messed up. Oh well. Soon, there will be more pictures, but you'll have to wait a bit more...

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